From Near Disaster to Unexpected Kindness : Day 4 Adventure of Lahaul-Sp...

So welcome again this is the day 4 of my lahaul spiti by walk trip where I am doing adventurous walk of 650 kilometres in 35 days through kinnaur spiti and lahaul.

Shortcuts are not often worth it

In the last episode, I took a risky shortcut that almost cost me my life. The route was dangerous due to landslides, so I had to turn back halfway.

By the way, this video has subtitles in many languages, check for subtitles in your language.

Ups! Thanks God Saved.

S**t, S**t, S**t,

This ordeal drained my energy and wasted my morning until 2:00 PM. This incident taught me that quick choices can have big consequences, and it's important to be careful, especially in dangerous areas.

A man had warned me about the landslides and suggested an alternative route to National Highway 5. Following his guidance, I took another shortcut, which led me to the main road at last. By 3:00 PM, I decided to take a break and recharge with Parle G biscuits and tea.

 I have come back to vishal again and he is telling me this route which will take me to na tional highway 5. Alright my friend thank you.

I'm on the road right now.

This is the worst experience I've had in my difficult life. After trying to take a shortcut, I ended up back at the same place after walking around for about 4 hours. If I had taken the bus, I could have reached here in just half an hour.

Things have gotten really bad. It's already 3 PM, and I still need to walk 14 to 15 kilometers.

To ease the pain in my legs and shoulders, I did some stretching.

I've covered seven kilometers so far, and it's still 3 PM. Ribba waterfall is 13 kilometers away from here. I'm not sure if I'll be able to reach it. My legs are hurting because of the shortcuts I took. I've lost a lot of strength in my legs, but I'll keep walking as much as I can.

 

During my journey, two things caught my attention: the scenic road itself and the  iconic "Bro" signboards that are a familiar sight along these routes.

The second half of the day was quite windy, as is often the case in the mountains. Walking on these roads has consistently been a remarkable and enjoyable experience, especially with such a stunning backdrop. The stretch of road between Pawri Kanchi and Pangi Nala Bridge is mostly downhill and offers excellent road conditions. The added bonus is the breathtaking mountain views on either side of the road.

I've arrived at Pangii Nala, which is the Paagi Nala bridge. The stream is flowing to my left. Unfortunately, I couldn't continue on the road due to a landslide, so I had to turn back. This road, which is only 4 kilometers away, would have brought me here. Instead, completing this journey that should have taken half an hour has now taken me 3-4 hours.

Pangi Nala is a high-pressure water stream that flows under a bridge on National Highway 5 in Kinnaur district of Himachal Pradesh. It is one of the many flashpoints along the road that are prone to landslides and blockages due to the fragile and steep slopes of the mountains. Pangi Nala is also known for its scary and powerful sound that can be heard from a distance. The water flow is so strong that it causes vibrations in the iron bridge above it.

Pangi Nala, a high-pressure water stream under a bridge on NH 5 in Kinnaur, attracts thrill-seekers and photographers, but also poses a risk of landslides. It is a stunning and perilous sight of nature.

Notice the small bridge ahead; that used to be the only way to cross the nala's flow. However, a little farther down, they've constructed a concrete bridge. This has significantly improved safety when crossing the nala, especially during the monsoon season.

It's 5:00 in the evening now, and I've walked a total of 10 kilometers. I still have 11 kilometers to go, and I need to stop soon.

At the 13-kilometer mark in Akspa, you'll find the Kasang Hydro Power Project, which was built over the Kasang River.

Be cautious around the river; water levels can rise unexpectedly. The road ahead seems to lead out of the river area and appears to slope upward. If I follow this path and continue a bit, I'll reach the Ksang Bridge, which is close to a waterfall. If I can find a suitable spot there, I might consider stopping for the night, especially since it's already 6 PM. If not, I'll proceed a bit further.

 

There's also a hot water spring in the vicinity. If I can locate it, it would be a nice opportunity for a relaxing bath and a drink. If that's not possible, there's a dhaba a short walk away. Although it shows as closed on Google Maps recently, I could explore the building for a possible place to stay. So, I have a few options for accommodations tonight.

 

Let me share some insights about this road. The road ahead appears to be in good condition, and traffic is sparse. I only encounter an occasional car or motorbike. The bus service is running regularly.

 

In certain sections, you won't see these red lights. Their absence indicates the possibility of landslides up ahead. I'll need to exercise caution as I proceed. These lights are installed on both sides of the road, indicating areas prone to landslides. There are also warning boards to alert travelers about these conditions.

While journeying between Pangi Nala and Kasang Nala, I had the pleasure of meeting a biker who was exploring the Lahaul Spiti region on his trusty Hero Splendor motorcycle. Let's delve into the intriguing conversation I had with him.

How did this Hero's bike manage on this route?

 

There's really no issue at all. Some people get scared easily, and they just say there will be problems. But it's not like that. You need to have the courage to be like you're in your own element, moving around freely like traveling without any worries, as you must have seen.

 

Amit: Is your back not hurting?

Sardar ji: No, no! I don't have any back problems right now. I'm feeling great. Everything's going smoothly. If the drivers are skilled, then everything works out well.

 

Amit: Look at the amazing journey you're experiencing.

Amit: So, how many days have you been on the road?

Biker: It's been 3 days now.

Amit: Where did you start from?

Biker: I started from Ludhiana in Punjab.

Amit: And you've already reached here in 4 days?

Biker: Yes, I covered the distance in 4 days.

Amit: That's really impressive.

Biker: Hey, you're doing a fantastic job. It shows that you're a nature lover.

Walking on these roads can be incredibly dangerous. Just look at all this debris around here. The areas where it has fallen and the stones that are precariously balanced, it seems like they could come loose and roll down at any moment. I have no idea whose fate might be sealed by these stones. They have a menacing appearance, and even where I'm standing doesn't feel secure. There's a large rock right above my head, and the potential for stones to fall on anyone is a real threat. This situation is highly risky, and being on such roads, particularly during the rainy season, is especially hazardous.

Kasang Nala has witnessed several incidents of landslides and rockfalls in the past, causing damage to vehicles and disrupting traffic movement.

Kasang Nala is not only a trouble spot but also a scenic spot for some travelers who want to enjoy the beauty of nature in Kinnaur. The water stream flows under a bridge on NH 5, creating a soothing sound and a refreshing sight. Some people also stop by to take pictures and videos of Kasang Nala and the surrounding landscape. However, it is advisable to be careful and alert while traveling on this road, as landslides can happen anytime without any warning. Kasang Nala is a symbol of the challenges and charms of traveling in Kinnaur.

Personally, I found the Kasang Waterfall to be even more captivating than the Pangi Nala waterfall. The abundance of water and the thundering sound of its flow filled me with an adrenaline rush. The experience was a perfect blend of tranquil beauty and thrilling adventure.

As the clock struck 7:00 PM, I encountered a signboard indicating the beginning of the Morang boundary from that point onwards.

After quite a while, I've reached a section where there's no wind, and I can speak calmly. So, in the last five kilometers, it's currently 7:30 in the evening. I've just covered a substantial distance. Some locals were mentioning that this area is known for the risk of encountering a snow leopard. While I might not be particularly concerned, it's always wise to heed local advice. Thankfully, I haven't come across any such danger so far. Also, I've noticed that I encounter someone passing by roughly every hour and a half.

 

My current task is to find a place to spend the night. Another challenge I'm facing is that I'm feeling extremely hungry. I had a pack of biscuits for lunch in the afternoon and had two parathas in the morning, but that's all I've eaten. Now, at this moment, I'm quite famished. Once I find a suitable spot, I plan to cook a good meal, eat, and then rest. Being on my own without any specific destination to reach is a relief. I can stay wherever I find a suitable spot. For the past four days, I've been on the move continuously. Today is the first day I'm feeling genuinely good while walking. I can honestly share that the last few days, especially the time spent in Chitkul and Sangla, weren't as enjoyable. The weather was quite hot then. However, today is cloudy, which might be why I'm not feeling the heat as much.

As darkness descended, I struggled to find a suitable place to rest. Contemplating my options, I considered setting up my tent near a public toilet. However, the presence of a car with its headlights on nearby raised concerns about safety, prompting me to abandon the idea. Instead, I made the choice to continue walking until I reached Shahi Dhaba.

 

As it turns out, this decision proved to be the right one. Allow me to illustrate why.

Hello! I'm sorry I'm late. Can I set up my tent and spend the night here?

 

Sure!

Yeah!

 

Hello, thank you so much. I'm quite tired. Do you also have food available, or is that not an option?

 

Where would you like to set up your tent?

 

Yes, I'll set it up here on the side. It shouldn't cause any problems.

 

You can put it over there in the fields.

 

Alright!

 

Please note that during the night, locals who are intoxicated might come around here. They could be a nuisance. Over there, you'll likely be more comfortable.

 

Yes!

 

So, are you planning to camp here? I'll pitch my tent over there.

 

I'm traveling alone, walking all across Lahaul Spiti.

 

Shall we go?

 

Yes! Today marks the fourth day.

 

Is this the right way to go?

 

Okay?

 

You're traveling on foot, right?

 

Yes, I'm covering the entire Lahaul Spiti region on foot.

 

Could you tell me your name again?

 

Vandana and Sharda.

 

Sharda is the name of my aunt.

 

Sharda is my mother's name.

 

Here's where I'll be setting up my tent. There's an apple tree, and you can even see a small apple here. This seems like a good spot.

 

I've reached the Shahi Dhaba that was indicated. Now I'm going to get some food.

 

And this is Vandana. I hope you don't mind being on YouTube.

 

Okay.

So, you, your mom, and your grandmother run this restaurant. It's a family effort managing this establishment.

 

On Google Maps, it was showing as temporarily closed. It's good that you updated it. I didn't know it would be open, but by chance, I ended up here.

 

The first dish is capsicum vegetable, and what's the second dish? It's "Saag".

 

It's said that the fourth attempt brings good luck, and indeed it's been good. I've pushed forward despite facing a lot of challenges. I had to walk in the dark and deal with a lot of uncertainty. However, despite the temporary closure shown on Google Maps, Shahi Dhaba was actually open when I arrived. I asked if I could get some food, and they prepared rice and even made the vegetable dish. Later, I found out that their closing time is 9:00 PM. So, I think they might have delayed their closure to prepare food for me. It's a kind gesture, even if they're charging a bit extra. It's all part of the journey.

 

And now, at 10:30 in the night, my day comes to a close. My stomach is full, and I'm content. I've set up my tent on the property of a Nepali family. They come here only during summers and return for the winters. There are two women who manage the dhaba, and their daughter Vandana is also here with them.

 

So the total cost has been  spent, ₹ 170 breakfast estimate was spent, how I'm not sure about the cost; I'll find out tomorrow morning. After walking for several kilometers, I've arrived at Shahi Dhaba. They're getting ready for tomorrow. We'll catch up again tomorrow morning at 7:00 AM. These folks open up at 7:00 AM. If you've been following the earlier episodes, you'd know that I started from Chitkul and progressed from there. If you're interested in the entire series, you can watch from the beginning or catch up from where you left off. I want to express my gratitude to those who have supported me through my injury and my journey via PayPal and Google Pay.